I am always in awe of people who take time out of their busy schedules to be one with nature. Given a choice, I could happily spend time outdoors without human company for days on end. But have I taken up this as a passion? Unfortunately, the answer to this question is a No.
So when I got a chance to speak with Amritha Krishnan – travel enthusiast and an avid trekker, I was excited. An architect by profession and an amateur photographer, Amritha tries to keep herself moving as she finds it stimulates her creativity.
Please see excerpts from my interview with Amritha. Here she describes her experiences of being close to nature and provides expert tips for the enthusiasts out there who are planning their next trek. And of course, I couldn’t resist sneaking in a question about Yoga.
Q. I know you as someone who loves trekking. What is the driving factor behind these treks?
I enjoy experiencing new places, particularly the lesser known ones. Getting out of the city, the crowds, the pollution, work stress, monotony, or reality, if you will, helps me reconnect with myself as well as allows me to meet many like-minded people. It is also a strong motivator to stay fit and healthy.
Q. What are the places you have covered so far?
My trekking journey started in 2016, when a friend invited me to join him on a trek in Kashmir called the Kashmir Great Lakes trek. The experience was so magical for me that since then I’ve been hooked.
I try and do one long distance, high altitude trek in the Himalayas every year. Apart from KGL, I completed the Pin Bhaba Pass in 2017 and the Three Passes via Everest Base Camp trek in 2018. I have trekked more extensively in the Western Ghats, around Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu, since I can do these over a weekend. Some of my favorite peaks in the region are Kudremukh, Meesapulimala and Amedikallu.
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Q. How was your experience with Everest base camp? How many days was this for?
The EBC three passes trek was easily the most challenging trek I’ve done so far, but also the most rewarding. The standard EBC route has become very popular over the years, and I wanted to do a less traversed route. So I joined a group of friends who were planning a circumferential route to the base camp, crossing a couple of passes at higher altitudes than the base camp along the way. We barely met a soul on this trail !
It was a 15 day endeavour with the landscape constantly shifting from one day to the next. I walked through terrains that I could never have imagined in my wildest dreams.
At one point we were crossing the famous Khumbu glacier, covered in undulating layers of ice, rock and debris- and it looked straight out of a movie set!
Q. What was the most beautiful/memorable aspect of the trip?
Two things actually. One has to be the variety in the landscape. The setting varies not just from one day to the next, but multiple times within any given day.
We clambered up boulders, strolled through gorgeous high altitude meadows, under some of the world’s tallest and most awe-inspiring mountains, trekked along pristine alpine lakes, ran down slippery scree slopes with barely a foothold and crossed glaciers.
And to top that, the privilege of standing upon the hallowed ground of the Everest base camp, from where all the famous mountaineers have attempted to summit the world’s tallest mountain. I think the majesty and beauty of the Khumbu region is simply unparalleled.
Q. What was the most difficult aspect of climbing?
I had underestimated the trek. We had two very high altitude pass crossings (at 18,100 ft and 17,780 ft). We had about 8 trekking days where we were constantly above 14,000 ft. And to top that, we lost 3 days due to some mix ups at the airport, and had to squeeze our itinerary to account for the limited time.This meant we had no rest days and covered two days of trekking in one, a few times.
Often, my mind would give up far easier than my body. I was plagued by self doubt, and in some cases, downright panic at how difficult the climbs were.
I started to mentally prepare myself at the start of each day, taking it one day at a time, one ascent at a time. I wouldn’t always manage to convince myself, but would try to keep my walking-breathing rhythm intact. Most of the time though, the views kept me going on.
Having managed to do the trek, I feel endlessly proud of myself: it taught me to trust my body and my training.
Of course, the next time I plan a major trek, I will prepare better.
Q. What preparations do you do before your trekking expeditions?
Before any high altitude trek, one is advised to do 2-3 months of intense cardiovascular workout, so 4-5 workouts of an hour each, per week. All the guides advise that you should be able to run 10km in under and hour. Let me be honest, I have never actually managed to do this!
Each trek I learn a little bit more about what is necessary and adjust my training accordingly for the next trek. The intention behind cardiovascular training is to improve the capacity of the heart and lungs, since oxygen levels reduce drastically as the altitude increases. It is also imperative to do some strength and endurance training since most of these treks involve days where you’re climbing steep mountains for 3-4 hours continuously.
Before KGL, my training included an hour of yoga 5 days a week along with a 10km walk. Since then, I’ve trained using a combination of running (5-10km), swimming (which is not only a great workout, but particularly fantastic for your lungs), yoga for stretching and stair climbing (50-60 floors with a 6kg backpack) for strength.
But physical training aside, mental preparation is crucial. It can be incredibly challenging to take even 10 steps at above 14,000ft.
I spend a little time familiarising myself with the altitudes to be reached and the number of days at extreme altitude.
Q. As a woman, do you feel safe when you go on trekking? This might seem a bit old fashioned , but safety of women is always in question when travelling alone?
Actually this is a pretty common question, and one that I often get from my friends.
To be honest, I have never felt safer than when I’ve been on a trek. I’ve always trekked in a group and made great friends at each trek.
Everyone looks out for each other, and usually a buddy system develops within the first day or two which ensures that nobody falls behind and everyone is safe. More often, I’ve found that travelling alone in a city can be much more of a safety concern than getting to the remote villages that these treks start from. On the trek itself, one is highly unlikely to encounter unsavoury elements. The people in the mountains are among the nicest people you’d ever meet.
Q. Excluding the Everest base camp, what has been the favourite trek so far? And why?
Without a doubt, it has to be the Kashmir Great Lakes trek. This was my first trek, and it made me fall in love with trekking. It is an 8 day trek that takes you through the spectacular landscape that is Kashmir.
You walk from one pristine lake to another, through alpine forests and expansive meadows, surrounded by majestic snow-capped mountains. The trek even has three pass crossings. Kashmir really is the paradise that it has been claimed to be.
Once you start the trek, you completely lose track of the fact that you are in one of the most disputed lands in the country. There are no towns or villages here, and the only people you meet are the Bakarwals grazing their sheep for the summer.
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Q. I know that you also do yoga. Do you find any connection between the two?
I was introduced to yoga in my teenage years, but I really started doing yoga and enjoying it a little over 2 years ago. I was working long hours and had a highly stressed work life. My mother encouraged me to enroll in a yoga class. Coincidentally, this was about the same that I was first introduced to trekking. Trekking and yoga together brought about a major change in lifestyle for me.
Q. Did your practice of Yoga – the asana and the pranayama – help you during the trekking?
Before my first Himalayan trek, I had been a couch potato, but once I started Yoga, it helped me become sufficiently fit for the trek. After the trek, my yoga teacher enquired if doing yoga had helped with my breathing. I honestly didn’t know at that time if it had. I told him so, and he was surprised. On my latest trek , I realised what it was that he was talking about.
On the second day of the EBC trek, I felt the symptoms of altitude sickness coming on. I caught a cold and my nose was blocked, making it further difficult for me to take in oxygen. My oxymeter readings were low. For the first time, on a trek, I did Nadishodhan pranayam and Kapalbhati for a few minutes each. The result surprised me. My oxygen levels improved significantly, and I could feel the difference almost within a few hours. I continued to do Nadishodhan twice a day for the next 3 days.
It was surprising that I got so much out of what I’d previously considered the “boring aspects of yoga”! I also attribute a lot of my muscle strength to my yoga training.
Q.What benefits have you derived from both?
The main benefit for me is definitely an overall improvement in fitness. I’ve always struggled with fitness as well as weight issues. My personal experience has been that yoga has helped me increase my fitness in the long term. Trekking keeps me motivated to stay fit and able.
Q. Any tips for the women trekkers?
From the hygiene point of view, if you can choose between regular toilets and bio-toilets that use earth and coco peat, always choose the latter- they are cleaner, much more hygenic and much more smell-free than regular toilets. Also, menstrual cups are a great life saver, saving a lot of hassle, being easier to clean, not requiring disposal when there is no place to dispose and of course, being eco-friendly.
And very important, carry a good backpack, and pack light- no more than 5kg- regardless of how long the trek is. Do not listen to your guy friends who may carry upwards of 10 kilos! A heavy backpack is not an indication of how strong you are. A lighter backpack will allow you to move easier and you’ll not have sore shoulders at the end of it.
Q. Any tips for people who are looking for trekking experiences?
I’d personally recommend trekking with a reputed group where the trek leaders have sound medical training (particularly important for high altitude treks), and those who ensure group sizes are limited to 10, as you get to know everyone better in a small group. And train well before going on a trek. Trekking may just be walking, but long hours and high altitudes necessitate a certain level of fitness and endurance that you need to be prepared for.
Q. Anything else you would like to add?
Just go out there and trek! It’s awesome!
Trekking is an amazingly enriching experience. Sure it feels great to be in the outdoors and commune with nature, but there’s more to it than that. Trekking puts you in what is for us city-dwellers an alien environment, and you learn so much about yourself because of that. When you are out there, it is just you and the mountains. You get to really know your capabilities, your endurance levels, strengths and limits. Your deepest fears come to the surface, and you automatically figure out how to battle it and come out on top. At the end of a trek, you feel so confident and renewed, and that much closer to Nirvana. Suddenly every problem you face has a crystal clear answer!
And that is why I’ve always come back from a trek wanting more, to go back immediately, regardless of how physically exhausted I may be! I’m sure once you get out there, you will too.
Wow ! Truly breathtaking views and I am sure it would have been an amazing experience. Thank you, Amritha, for your time and letting the readers experience these stunning landscapes through your lens. Genuinely inspirational!
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You can follow Amritha Krishnan on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/amritha.krsn, to see the incredible natural landscapes that she has traversed and keep up with her latest trekking experiences..
Interviewed by:
Hema Laxman,
Owner: Flamingo Yoga & Wellness
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